The Sweetest Hill in Nassau: How Mortimer Candies Crafted a Century of Bahamian History
If there is a single scent that defines the childhood nostalgia of generations of Bahamians, it is the sweet, sharp aroma of boiling peppermint wafting from the top of East Street Hill in Nassau.
Since 1928, Mortimer Candies has stood as a living monument to Bahamian resilience, culinary tradition, and entrepreneurship. Operating for nearly a century, it is one of the oldest black-owned manufacturing businesses in the country. To visit Mortimer Candies is not just to buy a bag of sweets; it is to step directly into a time capsule of "Over-the-Hill" Nassau history.
The Genesis of a Sweet Dream (1928)
The story of Mortimer Candies begins with its founder, Ulric Mortimer, Sr. As a child, Ulric learned the basic chemistry of candy making from his mother. However, his motivation to turn this kitchen craft into a commercial enterprise went far deeper than a simple love for sugar.
In the 1920s, opportunities for young Black Bahamians were severely restricted by systemic and economic barriers. Ulric envisioned a manufacturing company that could serve a dual purpose: crafting high-quality confectioneries locally and, more importantly, providing meaningful employment and skill training to young people within his community.
Determined to master the commercial craft, Ulric traveled to the United States to attend a specialized "candy college," spending two years studying the physics of sugar boiling, pulling, and flavor formulation. Upon returning to Nassau, he initially opened his doors on Hospital Lane before establishing the permanent, iconic location at the top of East Street Hill under the original name, “The Best Ever Candy Company.”
The Iconic Factory and "Over-the-Hill" Culture
The factory’s physical location is deeply tied to Nassau's social history. Situated just uphill from the historic downtown grid, East Street serves as a gateway to the "Over-the-Hill" neighborhoods (such as Bain Town and Grants Town). Historically, this was the vibrant heartbeat of Nassau’s working-class Afro-Bahamian community.
For decades, Mortimer Candies has operated out of its distinctive shop. While the packaging and distribution have modernized over the generations, the soul of the production line remains remarkably unchanged:
The Equipment: The shop still proudly uses the original heavy marble slabs (used to cool hot sugar) and copper kettles that Ulric and his wife, Winifred, used in the mid-20th century. Old, retired machinery is displayed outside the shop like museum pieces, while historical photos and newspaper clippings line the interior walls.
The Method: The process is a captivating mix of sensory craftsmanship. Watchmakers of sugar heat the candy mixture until it bubbles perfectly, pour it onto the cooling slabs, and pull it into long, gleaming ropes before cutting them into their signature shapes.
Signature Treats: The Flavors of the Bahamas
While the shop has expanded its inventory over the decades to include modern snacks, slushies, and snow cones, its legacy is built on traditional, handcrafted Bahamian confections.
1. The Legendary Mortimer Mints
The undisputed crown jewel of the factory. These are not your average chalky, machine-stamped peppermints. Mortimer Mints are hard, beautifully glossed, pulled-sugar nuggets with an intense, long-lasting peppermint flavor. The exact ratio of ingredients and pulling technique remains a closely guarded family secret.
2. Benny Cakes and Peanut Cakes
A foundational element of traditional Bahamian confectionery. "Benny" is the local term for sesame seeds. To make a benny cake, sesame seeds are boiled down with sugar (and often a touch of ginger) until caramelized, then dropped onto a surface to cool into a brittle, intensely sweet, nut-like disc. Peanut cakes follow a similar, deeply satisfying crunch profile.
3. Coconut Cream Candies and Drop Cakes
Celebrating the abundance of the islands, these treats combine freshly grated local coconut with boiled sugar. They range from soft, chewy coconut-cream squares to the more rustic, hardened coconut drop cakes.
4. Paradise Sweets
A more recent visual celebration, these hard candies are meticulously swirled with the vibrant aquamarine, gold, and black colors of the Bahamian flag—a favorite token for visitors wanting to take a literal piece of the culture home.
A Generational Legacy
What makes Mortimer Candies an extraordinary anomaly in the modern business world is its uninterrupted family lineage. The business has successfully transitioned across four generations:
Today, the company is led by Ulric’s great-grandson, Cayle Mortimer. True to the family ethos, Cayle’s role transcends the desk; it is a common sight to see the company president in an apron, working directly over the hot copper pots and hand-rolling the candy lines alongside his staff.
Royal Visitors and Global Praise
The reputation of Mortimer's sweets eventually broke through geopolitical and class divides. During World War II, when the Duke of Windsor (the former King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom) was stationed in Nassau as the Royal Governor of The Bahamas, he and the Duchess became frequent patrons of the candy kitchen, famously fond of the local mints.
Today, it remains a mandatory pilgrimage site. While international cruise passengers occasionally wander up the hill guided by word-of-mouth, the shop’s primary customer base remains the local Bahamian public. It is a staple for school children, a nostalgic stop for adults returning from work, and an essential component of local holiday celebrations.
Visiting Mortimer Candies Today
If you plan to experience this sweet piece of Bahamian history for yourself, keep the following in mind:
Location: East Street Hill, just a short walk from Nassau Cruise Port in downtown Nassau.
The Experience: Try to visit mid-morning. If your timing is right, you can watch the candy-makers pulling and cutting the hot sugar through the viewing areas, accompanied by the unforgettable smell of fresh mint.
Must-Buy: Grab a classic brown bag of Mortimer Mints, a couple of benny cakes, and a refreshing snow cone to battle the Bahamian heat.
Mortimer Candies is more than a confectionery manufacturer. It stands as a testament to what happens when an individual's dream of community uplifting is molded with craftsmanship and passed down like a sacred flame. For ninety-eight years and counting, it remains, as its tagline proudly proclaims, "A Sweet Bahamian Tradition."
